Keeping Doukhobor heritage alive, one bowl of borscht at a time

From her Winlaw kitchen, Kelly Malakoff shares the flavours of her childhood through Kelly’s Doukhobor Foods

by Danielle Brost
Kelly Malakoff holding food items

Kelly Malakoff in her traditional Doukhobor shawl (Platok) with her famous borscht and lapsha (traditional egg noodles). — Photos courtesy of Kelly Malakoff

For Kelly Malakoff, the smell of simmering vegetables and fresh-baked bread is a direct link to her past. Her business, Kelly’s Doukhobor Foods, is built on a foundation of heritage, community and a belief that the recipes she grew up with should be preserved and shared.

“My inspiration to start my business came from my strong admiration for the Doukhobor heritage, culture and foods I grew up with,” said Malakoff, who was raised in the small Doukhobor community of Pass Creek, B.C. “I knew every family and went from elementary school to high school with all the children there. It was a great place to grow up and it formed strong bonds that last to this day.”

Kelly Malakoff’s photo appears on every label, along with an image of the Doukhobor Village in Pass Creek, B.C., where her grandparents Peter and Annie Soukeroff lived.

The three F’s

Malakoff runs her company with what she calls “the three F’s” — food, family and friends.

“Food connects you to your roots and heritage,” she said. “Family gives you support, love and encouragement. Friends keep you humble and grateful.”

Her traditional Doukhobor borscht and other specialties have a way of taking customers back to their childhood kitchens.

This dish is traditionally served with homemade bread, pickles and cheese.

“I’m often approached by people who’ve moved away from the Kootenays who tell me that when they eat my borscht, it reminds them of their Baba,” said Malakoff. “That’s the greatest compliment I could receive.”

Over the past two decades, Malakoff has grown her business while also building strong relationships with other local producers.

“We’re a strong, passionate and resilient group of business people in the Kootenays who are willing to help and inspire each other,” she said. “Connecting, collaborating and sharing information has helped me grow as a company and as an individual.”

Pyrahi (baked vegetable tarts) and everything else at Kelly's Doukhobor Foods is made from scratch and by hand—from all the fillings to the pinching.

Challenges and rewards

Running a food business in the Kootenays comes with both challenges and rewards.

“The rewards are getting to provide my community with great food, meeting customers, being recognized on the street and hearing, ‘We buy your borscht all the time, it’s fantastic!’” said Malakoff. “That’s why I’ve continued for over 20 years. Customer engagement is key, whether it’s in person or on social media.”

But it isn’t without its struggles.

“High supply costs, logistics, labour and the competitive food industry mean I’m always keeping up with regulatory standards, packaging changes and supply issues,” said Malakoff. “The food industry isn’t easy, but it is rewarding.”

Farmers markets have played an important role in her success, providing both a sales outlet and a testing ground for new products.

“They’ve allowed me to connect with customers and test new products,” she said. “If a product’s a hit, it might end up on a store shelf. That’s how I’ve grown to 20 products now available year-round.”

Keeping quality at the core

From her production facility in Winlaw, in the heart of the Slocan Valley, Malakoff continues to put quality first.

“Consistency is key in maintaining a good reputation, whether it’s your product or getting it to the store,” she said. “You need to know when to expand and when to pull back. As long as I keep producing Doukhobor specialties, I feel I’ll be keeping our heritage and culture alive.”

Her advice to others in the industry is simple but hard-earned.

“Believe in yourself. Be strong. Ask for advice. Follow your dreams. Be passionate about your company. Work hard. Stay humble,” said Malakoff. “Sometimes the hard road is the best road travelled.”

The vareniki (perogies) are hand pinched.

Keep up with the latest from Kelly’s Doukhobor Foods on Instagram, Facebook or the company’s website.

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