Bull riding, Disneyland and beating Big Mama

Rafting the Elk River can feel like several experiences in one wild trip

The ups and downs on the Elk River beat any day at the office. — Mountain High Adventures

I spent the day riding class 4 rapids through some gorgeous Rocky Mountain scenery. Along the way, I went bull riding, visited Disneyland, hung around with Van Halen and was almost swept off my seat by Big Mama’s surprise. Oh, and I did a bit of cliff jumping to break up the monotony. How was your work day?

I’ve been wanting to raft the Elk River near the Canada-U.S. border in southeastern B.C. since Jon Knauf, the owner of Mountain High Rafting, told me about it following a wild ride on another East Kootenay river, the Bull. Knauf rafts both rivers: the Bull in the spring and the Elk in the summer. The Bull River is a full throttle ride with tight canyons and rapids named the Sandwich Maker and the Toilet Bowl—all the best rapids have names that come with a story—and it’s definitely a must-do on any adrenaline junkie’s checklist. But at the end of it, Knauf told me that for the full-meal deal, I had to spend a day on the Elk.

The Elk River is a relatively warm river; in the summer, the water can reach up to 20°C. I’ll admit that, wimp that I am, that was one of my main reasons for wanting to take the ride. However, I’ll redeem myself and retain my cool points by saying it was Knauf’s promise of a wild, tight canyon ride down class 4 rapids that really got my attention.

The Elk didn’t disappoint. After a steep walk down to the put-in site and a safety briefing by our intrepid guide, Mark Hatch, it was all hands on deckâ��six people to each raft plus one guideâ��and into the river. Hatch suggests we all take a moment to look around at the scenery that includes hoodoos, osprey nests and glacial rivers. Soon enough we’ll be busy with other things.

Here be dragon slayers

There’s an interesting thing that happens after the first set of rapids. Before you approach the burbling whitewater, there is often doubt and trepidation for the first-timer. Even though we’ve been prepared for all eventualitiesâ��swim away from log jams, pull swimmers into the raft using their life jackets, dive safely across the raft in case of high-sidingâ��there’s still that remaining bit of (let’s call it) instinct telling you that paddling into class 4 rapids is a ridiculous thing to be doing. But after you get that first full-on rush of water in the face while trying to dig your paddle into water but getting nothing but air, you are pumped. You are ready. And when you see those bad boys coming your way, you find yourself yelling uncharacteristically, “Yeah! Bring it! Bring it on!”

The first quarter of the trip was the training ground. Some class 2 to 3 rapids to get our bearing followed by an amazing lunch provided by Mug Shots Bistro from Fernie only left us hungry for the big, bad stuff in the tight Philips Canyon. You want the calories for this. It’s intense—deep bowls and whorls that bounce you around the raft while sudden 2-metre waves appear from nowhere to smack you in the face and tell you who’s boss. There’s a hairpin turn and a tight squeeze in the middle of the run that looks just like the curl on a surfer’s wave and you head directly for it. And, strangely, you’re laughing your fool head off as you paddle like mad to get there.

Play time

Alas. It was over far too quickly. However, there was a tasty dessert on the outer edge of the canyon. A bit of cliff jumping kept the heart going and gave us the chance to feel the pull of the river personally. It also allowed us the opportunity to appreciate the incredible beauty of the canyon that has been carved through the millennia.

From there, we got to play. We stood up to surf. Daring souls sat on the front of the raft and, with hands in the air, did the bullrider down the Disneyland rapids. There were no-holds-barred water fights with the other rafts. (Hint: Hatch told us the secret to winning was to claim victory first, regardless of who soaked who most.) Several of our team ditched their paddles to jump overboard in the Swimming rapids. We rocked out on the Van Halen section But everyone concentrated all of their energy on the upcoming rapid: Big Mama Let me tell you, Big Mama packs a wallop.

And then we’re done. Back on the bus. Exhausted but grinning from ear to ear.

Our group included young teens and grandparents. The most arduous part of the Elk River journey is the steep 120-metre walk down to the put-in site. From there, although you’re working to paddle the rafts to the point where the guides can steer you into the river’s sweet spots, Hatch assured us that he could take a group safely down the river without the power provided by the group’s oars. It’s just a better ride when you’re digging in to get there. However, if you’re not sure that you can make the journey down the hill, ask Knauf about the Bull River tour—every bit as thrilling and with just as many visual feasts along the way.

Mountain High Rafting also provides inflatable kayak trips for those who want to take the next bold step in whitewater addiction. It’s on my list.