The cream of the hops

The Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. had humble beginnings, but owners Bart and Tracey Larson have lived to sell the ale

Tracey Larson said that hard work, tenacity and having a discerning eye when it comes to fads and trends have helped the Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. succeed. — Glynis Fediuk photo

Which of the following is the more difficult task—putting yourself through school for a science degree, or completely changing career paths to be a self-employed brewer?

Ask Bart and Tracey Larson at the Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. in Revelstoke—they've done both. The couple met in Vancouver during Tracey's first year at the University of British Columbia and went through school together. Tracey holds a bachelor of science in biology, while Bart achieved his PhD in nuclear physics.

Ten years after meeting, they married; while living in Vancouver, Bart found that many jobs within his field were located in the eastern United States or Europe. He was able to work for American universities while stationed in Vancouver and enjoyed his profession, but the Larsons began thinking about whether it was time for a change. Pursuing favourite recreational activities—mountain biking, skiing, hiking—was difficult in Vancouver, particularly due to traffic and travel.   

Bart had grown up in Revelstoke, and Tracey, originally from Vancouver, loved both the snow and the change of pace from the city life. Bart had experience as a home brewer and his creations were popular among friends and family, leading the Larsons to investigate brewing as their livelihood. Understandably, family and friends expressed concerns: Bart had studied for 10 years to get his PhD—why put in such effort, only to change careers? The couple had no experience running a brewery and lacked an insider's perspective on the industry. The Larsons were entering uncharted territory, and it was not without risk. Still, the pair relocated to Revelstoke, and after researching and assembling a business plan, they launched the Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. in 1996.

"When we opened, the failure rate for B.C. breweries was one in two," said Tracey. "We watched many breweries start and then watched them fail. There’s been times when it's been questionable for us, and we probably should have shut down—but there's a tenacious, stubborn side of us where we find a way to make it work."

My, how the times have changed

Walk up First Street West and stand outside the Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. It's a sizable building, grey in colour, likely with several logo-emblazoned trucks stationed in the adjacent parking lot. Next, walk inside into the reception area; behind large windows you'll catch sight of some of the inner workings of the brewery. You'll notice a long tasting bar with names like High Country Kölsch and Powerhouse Pale Ale written on the taps. Finally, you'll see evidence of the brewery's accolades, like a gold medal trophy from the 2010 Canadian Brewing Awards, on display.  

It's a far cry from the early days, when the business was located on Victoria Road and the sole product was the Begbie Cream Ale, then available only in kegs.

"(The brewery) was about a third of the size it is now," said Tracey. "We built it from scratch and had to come up with the first recipe ourselves and get those first customers ourselves—we were delivering beer in the back of our Jimmy."

The Larsons used innovative ideas to get Begbie beer onto the public's palate. Making their labels noticable via the use of photographs garnered attention; articles in the Vancouver Sun and the Globe and Mail helped them make a name for themselves. Tracey said that Revelstoke residents have been exceptionally supportive, asking for and purchasing Mt. Begbie beers, and in turn, the Larsons support local charities and fundraising events.

Based on the brewery's recent successes, it's hard to imagine a time when no one had heard of Mt. Begbie products. The company website lists an extensive array of national and provincial-level awards for its brews, now consisting of six regular brands and two seasonal lines. With the growth of the business—the brewery moved to its current location in 2007—Bart's and Tracey's roles within the company have also diversified. Initially, the couple found that all decisions and the majority of the jobs were done together. Now, while Bart is involved in the research and technical work, Tracey fulfills administrative duties, such as marketing and distribution. 

After 15 years in business, the Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. is a well-oiled machine, but hard work is always a foundation of day-to-day activities in the brewery. Tracey described herself and Bart as analytical people, eschewing trends and fads in favour of their own procedures and products. In the end, though, these fundamentals have resulted in the brewery surviving, succeeding and producing quality goods.

"I never dread coming in," said Tracey. "You know how in some jobs, you just dread going to work? I don’t."