Experience the extraordinary

One of the best places to stay in the world is in the Kootenays

Island Lake Resort invites guests to breathe deeply and relax in naturally inspired luxury. — Tanya Laing Gahr photo

In 2009, National Geographic Traveler recognized Island Lake Lodge in Fernie on its annual Stay List as one of the top places to stay on the planet. The parameters for being included on the list go beyond simple star ratings. Instead, the prestigious publication recognized hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts and rugged resorts that are reflective of their natural surroundings.

Island Lake Lodge’s inclusion on the list would come as no surprise to anyone who has visited the resort. It has, as the resort’s operations manager, Steve Kuijt, put it, a magical quality that keeps calling guests back year after year.

The resort is set in the Lizard Range near a rarity in the Rocky Mountains—an old-growth cedar forest. In summer, the moisture that is trapped in the valley creates a lush, verdant backdrop for the rustic mountain lodges. The eponymous lake draws canoeists, fly-fishing aficionados, daydreamers and artists, while the well-maintained hiking trails provide hours of sightseeing. And the resort draws all of its power from electricity generated on site—it is completely off the power grid and is an outstanding example of environmental sustainability.

The winter, of course, is all about cat-skiing. The snow in Fernie is legendary and the powder in the Lizard Range is part of the reason for the hype. Skiers and snowboarders from across the globe travel to Island Lake Lodge for a week of untouched, light-as-air powder plunging. And regardless of the season, the lodge provides unsurpassed luxury in its spa and restaurant.

I’ve been invited twice to Island Lake Resort—once in winter and once at the height of summer. It would be impossible to choose a favourite time to visit; the resort shines no matter what the season.

Choose your experience

While cat-skiing is the biggest draw in the winter, Island Lake Resort invites a slower pace too. Intersecting cross-country ski trails are groomed regularly and suitable for those who want to explore the quiet woods for an hour or two or for most of the day. Snowshoes are also available for those who want to blaze their own trail through the hidden glades just beyond the lodge. And a fire is almost always roaring in the Bear Lodge, the centre of activity.

Summer is a popular time for day-trippers to visit the resort. The trail around the lake is accessible to almost everyone for a slow stroll and there are connections to more arduous hiking trails that climb to spectacular viewpoints.

There is an ongoing debate among the staff at Island Lake about whether guests come for the natural amenities or the food. As someone who has experienced both, I can only conclude that it’s a tie.

The kitchen at Island Lake Lodge has created dishes that are French-inspired with a Rocky Mountain influence—many of the recipes have made their way into the recently released Island Lake Lodge: The Cookbook. I’m not usually a meat eater, but I was once treated to braised short ribs at the lodge that literally melted in my mouth. The meals stand out as among the most delicious and most memorable of my life. Combined with the remarkable setting, dining at the resort is an unforgettable experience.