Through the grapevine

The Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery is an amazing place to discover the diversity of Creston agriculture and some great vintages

by Kirsten Cook
Bob Johnson, wearing a plaid shirt stands in front of an iron work gate leading to a wine cellar.

Bob Johnson, co-owner of the Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery, shows off his wine cellar. — Brendan Mitchell photo

The Creston Valley is a good choice for anyone wishing to embark on an agricultural experience. It has a strong farming heritage, a delightful climate and a community of people dedicated to growing quality produce.

One exciting new development is the arrival of several wineries to the area. The Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery is one of the groundbreakers, having produced its first vintage in 2009. Since then, it has been a process of growth and discovery for the up-and-coming vineyard set in fertile Erickson, B.C.

Having adopted the motto “the adventure continues,” it is only apt that Bob Johnson and his wife, Petra Flaa—owners of the Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery—constantly strive to maximize all the potential of their backyard vines. Their abilities complement the process. Flaa is dedicated to the growing, making sure each vine is properly cared for, as well looking after the bookkeeping. Johnson is involved in the marketing and is also passionate about the winemaking process. They work together with an esteemed winemaker from New Zealand to help ensure that each variety of wine produced has the quality they strive for.

It becomes quickly obvious that winemaking is an art that must be mastered. Each flavour is natural and created solely from the grapes. The flavour is a balance of the fruit itself, the yeast used and the temperature and length of fermentation.

“Each varietal has its own characteristics,” said Johnson. “There’s also going to be some variation from soil to soil, region to region.”

The source of inspiration

The spirit of the winery itself is sourced from the original William Baillie-Grohman. He was an English adventurer who made a strong contribution to the early agriculture of the valley when he worked to reclaim the crop-growing flats from yearly flooding with the creation of dikes that still stand today. Legend tells us that inspiration struck Baillie-Grohman while he was overlooking the area on a hunting trip with future American president Theodore Roosevelt. It’s from this tale that the winery now bearing his name developed its label—a mountain goat alongside its motto.

“We wanted something classical and long-term. This is beyond the trend,” Johnson said. “People remember animals. Having one on your label helps them find it again.”

He also pointed out that, overall, research has been imperative in the startup of their business. They’ve also been sure to find help from well-established professionals. Regardless, Flaa and Johnson stay on top of their industry and both are enrolled in a winemaking course through a university.

From office to vineyard

With career histories in engineering and IT management, the couple find the winery a new and fulfilling field. Johnson has family in the Creston Valley, and he and Flaa originally invested in a cherry orchard. However, the pesticides required for cherries, combined with their intrusive nature, caused the couple to rethink their foray. In 2006 they purchased the apple orchard that would soon become the Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery.

The process of winemaking has proven to be very hands-on. The Baillie-Grohman winery focuses efforts on sustainability. Three local employees help with the vineyard, which utilizes solar power and composting. Due to the fact that grapes are an emerging crop in the Creston Valley, pests are not well established. The winery, although not certified organic, does its best to minimize sprays.

Currently the Baillie-Grohman winery offers a Pinot Gris, a Blanc de Noirs rosé, a Chardonnay, a Sauvignon Blanc, a Gewürztraminer and a Pinot Noir. The winemakers are also excited to be creating their first Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, currently aging in oak barrels made of a careful mix of new and seasoned wood. They are also working on a sparkling wine, which will be made using the traditional methode champenoise. This means that the the bubbles are created in the bottle using the same process used to make champagne. A visit to the Baillie-Grohman tasting room is recommended to experience all the nuances of each variety as well as to understand the careful crafting of each vintage.

Building on a growing success

Expansion is a continual part of the process at the winery. New vines are currently getting established and Merlot grapes are being sourced from another vineyard in B.C. Johnson mentioned that they hope to soon open a stunning outdoor venue to weddings and other events. They are even working on the building, creating larger washrooms and an accommodation that could become available when not in use by their winemaker.

It will, however, remain a great stop for anyone interested in exploring what Creston is capable of producing. It is easy to appreciate every step of the process, whether sampling the fruit of the vine or observing the beginning of the process, while looking over a sunny vineyard. Let the adventure continue, indeed.

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