Getting better with age

Here is a story of a simple dairy farm in Creston that grew to producing cheeses, and is looking to forward to bigger goals

by Kirsten Cook
Photo of Nadine Harris

Nadine Harris has become involved in the cheese-making process. — Brendan Mitchell photo

Every now and then you happen across a person who genuinely cares about the work they do. At the Kootenay Alpine Cheese Company you will find several of them.

Wayne and Denise Harris started out by purchasing a standard dairy farm, which is where they raised their family. When the kids grew up and went off to university, the Harrises decided to take on an entirely new project. Thus began the Kootenay Alpine Cheese Company.

That was all about five years ago. Now the Harris's dairy farm produces high quality artisan cheese that is shipped from coast to coast. It’s been quite a learning curve for the Harrises, as well as a very big project. Originally they hired a consultant to help them with the set-up. They also made sure to do some thorough research on the industry before taking it on.

Two of Wayne and Denise’s children have returned to farming full time. After spending some time away from Creston and at university, Nadine and Erin both hope to stay with the farm indefinitely. Erin did a degree in agriculture with a major in organics and is involved in working with the field and the dairy herd. Nadine enjoys helping with the cheese-making as well as the business and retail side. Their brother, Foster, has also returned and does a lot of the maintenance and construction around the farm.

Having a business that is involved with the product from start to delivery is a big job.

“We’re still learning constantly, as well as trying to improve,” said Nadine.

It takes about 1000 litres of milk to create 100 kilograms of cheese. At any time the Harrises milk about 80 cows out of a herd of 150. Roughly a third of the milk produced by their cows is destined for the cheese forms. Batches are made four days a week, and the remaining milk is currently shipped out of the Creston Valley.

Not, however, for long. There is another big development underway at Kootenay Alpine Cheese. In the future, all milk produced will stay to be processed on the farm. The goal is to have the milk pasteurized on site and then put through a separator to create the different percentages. The unique part of the process will come next, when the milk is then packaged into returnable glass bottles.

Using such an old packaging method has presented its own special challenge. All the equipment available is from a time when bottled milk was common and, therefore, needs to be refurbished. Currently, a new area is being constructed for all the new endeavors. It will include a new retail area and some free space to develop future dairy products. The early stages, however, will only include the bottled milk and freshly-made butter.

The expansion will include a rebranding. Although the Harrises are attached to their current logo, which was locally designed, a new one has been created. It will feature simple lines, grass sprigs and clover. One thought is that this gives recognition to the soil and fields that are the important start of the final product. A new name will also be implemented. In order to accurately represent the products, as well as maintain the integrity of the word alpine, the company will be rechristened Kootenay Meadows.

For now, Kootenay Alpine Cheese is continuing to produce three varieties of signature cheeses. Nostrala, Mountain Grana and Alpindon are all delicious raw-milk cheeses that are aged for over 60 days before being cut and wrapped. Even after being brined the cheeses are still work-intensive, needing to be flipped and sometimes hand-rubbed.

“The cheese is a natural cheese, right up to the edge,” said Nadine, “so the environment is really important to them.”

Sustainability is important at Kootenay Alpine Cheese Company. Milk is delivered to the cheese vat through gravity. Solar power is utilized, as is geo-thermal cooling. A mix of breeds helps to ensure a healthy herd of cows. Additionally, everything is certified organic.

“As my Mom likes to say, our cows our literally on a five to 10 mile diet,” said Nadine.

A visit to the Kootenay Alpine Cheese Company provides a wholesome farm experience, something that will only grow with the planned expansion.

“If you decide that you love what you do, it really becomes just part of the lifestyle,” said Nadine. “We love what we do. It’s really satisfying to see the end product.”

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